Travelling Komodo National Park

When I told the family we were spending five days in Komodo, but on a sailing boat, the despair was real. When I clarified that we would be #offgrid, with #NoWi-Fi or internet, I watched in amusement as their faces drained any remaining joy. Needless to say, by the end of our three-week Indonesian adventure, this would the highlight of everyone’s trip. And once again, I’d find myself questioning their outrageous habit of doubting my every adventurous plan.

When most travellers think of Indonesia—a nation made up of thousands of islands—Bali usually springs to mind, often with a side trip to the Gili Islands. Yet, Bali’s Denpasar is the gateway to a myriad of adventures, with Komodo possibly topping them all. Located several islands east of Bali, Komodo National Park is made up of around 18 uninhabited islands, plus two inhabited ones—Rinca and Komodo Island—where the infamous Komodo Dragons roam. You can hike through rugged landscapes, lounge on the now-iconic Instagramable pink beaches of Padar, or come face-to-face with the world’s largest lizards in their natural habitat. But the real magic lies beneath the surface: this is one of the best snorkelling and diving destinations in the world.

Our adventure began the moment we stepped off the plane, greeted by Yani—our chef, co-host, and soon to be the children’s new best friend (or second mother). Our first task was to board a small speedboat to the main vessel, along with all the supplies we would need – there are no shops in the ocean, regrettably - I had, of course, epically failed to pre-purchase wine, as our host had wisely advised.

The sun was already beating down, and my family’s faces wore expressions best described as “concerned”—wondering, once again, why I feel the need to push every holiday beyond the realms of ‘enjoyable and relaxing’. The youngest child revived her earlier protest about the absence of a swimming pool, to which I calmly reiterated (for the fifth time) that the sea would be her wet playground. Meanwhile, the adrenaline-fuelled middle child was practically bouncing with excitement at the perilous adventure that lay ahead.

As we boarded the boat and were given the grand tour around the decks, cabins, sunbeds, and lounge areas, the sighs of relief were equally palpable and amusing. Both the beauty of the boat and the magnificence of the national park made it an enchanting haven. The first order of business was to go over our itinerary, followed by testing the diving skills and knowledge of small passengers. The boys eyed the ancient dive map with trepidation as the sails went up and we were on our way.

The most popular option is a five-day sailing trip as this allows you to explore deeply and experience the best diving and snorkelling available, with hundreds of dive sites for all levels. The marine life is simply remarkable, and the national park is protected by its relatively low tourist traffic due to its remote location. We sailed, anchored, swam, dived, and canoed through a wonderland beneath the waves—turtles in abundance, vibrant coral, swarms of tropical fish, and sightings of eagle rays, manta rays, and stingrays. Sharks of all varieties, and easy-to-challenging dive sites made it an adventure for both divers and snorkelers alike.

Boat life was incredibly relaxing. The light sway of the boat gave us the best sleep. Everything was cooked from scratch on board, including pulping coconuts for milk for our Malaysian curry. The children alternated between the sea and games on board, as well as cooking with Yani, one of their favourite activities. Each morning, we woke up to the smell of freshly baked bread and eagerly looked forward to new magical adventures. We visited a deserted pink beach, lined with giant starfish and pink sand created from the vibrant coral in this area. We swam with manta rays, which admittedly required the entirety of our group to tread/swim a reasonably large section of deep water searching for them until one in the group finally shouted "Manta" and at which point we furiously waded through the sea to try and sight the dammed things. It was a test of patience but deliriously worthwhile hunt for the magnificent creatures. On the last day, we trekked Rinca Island to experience the Komodo Dragons the park is famously named after.

The views as we sailed to different parts of the park were mesmerising. The water’s vibrant blue colour gradually lightened to a soft blue closer to shore. The islands themselves were hilly, covered in lush green jungle. Just sitting on the sundeck, reading a book or doing a crossword with no one else in sight, felt like paradise. And beneath the water, the most magical underwater experience was a perfect complement.

When it was time to depart, there were tears all around. Being off-grid meant no distractions from enjoying each other’s company. The children didn’t once ask for their phones or a swimming pool, nor did they need them. The sea was indeed their playground. I honestly can’t remember a better experience than the one we had in Komodo.

Top Tip

To fully experience it, most travellers opt for a liveaboard—a sailing boat complete with crew and cabins that lets you explore the park’s most remote and beautiful corners. While there are hotels on Flores Island offering day trips, these excursions won’t typically reach the same top sites. Liveaboards are available as both private charters and group tours, making it possible to tailor the experience to your budget.